Jerusalem is a place that for many of us, exists strongly in the depths of our imagination from early on in life. The chance to actually visit a place that you read about so extensively, and one that holds so much historical significance, is dumfounding. Religious or not, this place is the epicenter of many things that shaped entire civilizations. Devastating wars have been fought over the very ideologies that originated here. Likewise, faith born here gave way to some of the most beautiful architecture and artwork in the world, as a testament to the highest devotion. It’s a fascinating and humbling experience to walk the cobbled streets of Jerusalem and retrace the steps of history, to say the least. Here is everything you must know before visiting Jerusalem.
Safety Matters
Military Presence Everywhere
Before visiting Jerusalem, you must understand that the present day city of Jerusalem is located in the country internationally recognized as Israel. I have to use this as a disclaimer, because while in the Middle East, you will enter countless heated conversations (usually against your will) about the legitimacy of calling this place Israel. However, my visit was never a political statement, as yours is unlikely to be. So, we will call it Israel for all intents of this article.
Israel is the epicenter of a historically unstable region of the world. Due to ongoing political issues and religious conflicts both domestically, and with neighboring countries, the military personnel are always on high alert.
You will find military guys with big guns all throughout Israel, and even more so when visiting Jerusalem. This makes sense considering what a critical role Jerusalem plays in both religion and history. The military guys generally roam the city idly, sometimes stopping to ask you questions if you seem suspicious, and sometimes even when you don’t.
There will be large numbers of them guarding the more significant religious sites, especially during the respective prayer times. Don’t let it bother you. If they tell you not to enter a site, comply. Likewise, if they question you, do the same, and they’ll shortly be on their way.
Dress Appropriately
Whether you are religious or not, this area is considered the Holy Land by many who visit and come here to pray. Be respectful and choose to dress modestly. While there are actually 3 religions in play here, there are some general rules you can follow to be respectful of all of them. For starters, no shorts or tank tops. For women, covering the chest and upper arms are also ideal, and skirts should be below the knee or longer. In churches, hats should be removed, while in mosques, women should keep their hair covered.
Shoes should also be removed when entering mosques.
Do Not Bring Up Politically Sensitive Topics
It should go without saying, that this is a very politically and religiously sensitive area of the world. Even if you may feel like you are in a touristy place, you’re really visiting an active religious hot spot. One that still has many very real conflicts and issues taking place in the present day.
Therefore, it would be very unwise to run your mouth on your opinions or take any strong stances advocating for either sides, especially in public. Avoid any politically or religiously sensitive topics altogether to avoid trouble, or just pissing anyone off.
Solo Female Experience
I didn’t have any particularly dangerous or threatening situation when visiting Jerusalem or Bethlehem, on the Palestinian side. However, I did deal with some aggressive shop owners. I came during the low season, and there were less buying customers at the time, so I must imagine they were a bit desperate.
Still, some shop owners became highly confrontational when I refused to visit their shops. Two even resorted to racial slurs and derogatory language. It was outrageous, and ruined my day, but I wasn’t ever really in danger. However, I do believe people felt free to intimidate and be aggressive towards me because I was a woman alone.
Getting There
You Will be Questioned Upon Entering
Regardless of your nationality, or other details about you as a person, you may be questioned by authorities upon entering Israel. Due to the current political climate, Israeli authorities have reason to believe that security is imminently threatened, and therefore they must resort to stringent security measures.
I entered in 2019, as a solo female traveling alone. I am unsure if it was because I was traveling alone or because I had no luggage, but I was detained. While in detention, I was questioned, in a manor that was almost laughable. It seems the officers questioning me forgot his own questions frequently. Instead, he resorted to asking me the same ones over and over. They checked my phone, my camera roll, and even my social media.
This is not unusual nor unheard of for tourists entering Israel, by land or air. Some people even reported being questioned for hours. It’s inconvenient, but stay calm throughout the process. It’s fairly standard procedure, and eventually, they’ll let you go.
You Won’t Get Stamped
For many years, travelers have had to get around the whole debacle of having an Israeli stamp in their passports. The reason is because, many Arabic countries will not permit entry to visitors who’ve been to Israel. This is a direct result of strained and tumultuous political relations.
Israel was always accommodating of this issue, and used to stamp a lose paper in the passport instead. Today, they’ve gone a step further and done away with stamping any passports at all.
Most places today won’t even ask you, and will just give you the visa paper instead of a stamp. So visitors to Israel can rest easy knowing a visit here won’t deter them from entering Arabic countries later down the line.
Do Not Lose the Little Paper
In regards to the point above, there is a small downside. The little visa they give you is the tiniest, single sheet of paper. Seriously, I’d say it’s no larger than a post-it. I was extremely stressed about losing it during my visit, although I’ve read other sources saying sometimes they don’t even ask you for it upon exiting. However, you will need it to enter and exit the Palestinian West Bank, and if you depart Israel via land border, they will ask for it. You’ll want to take extreme care to keep this paper with you until your time of departure.
Keep it in your wallet, or safely stowed somewhere it won’t get wet or damaged.
If You Cross the Border from Jordan
Some travelers in Jordan will choose to travel to Israel via land border. It’s not a long journey at all and in some ways is the convenient option.
When I crossed the land border, I did so at the King Hussein Bridge Border. This is the most popular entry point from Jordan into Israel. You can take a tourist bus directly from the capital, Amman, to the border. It’s perfectly safe, and many tourists were doing the same.
However, keep in mind that if you want to travel to other Arabic countries later on, namely Lebanon or even Saudi Arabia, you need to leave no trace of evidence in your passport that you have been in Israel.
You should ask the officials at the border to stamp a separate paper for you, to avoid leaving the exit stamp in the passport. The stamp would disclose the name of the border, making it very obvious for anyone who checks that you clearly entered Israel from Jordan.
When You are There
They Use A Different Outlet
I made a huge mistake when I visited, in not checking the electrical outlet requirements. I did not have the right adaptor and was unable to charge my devices the first day.
Check the adaptor used in Israel, and purchase one beforehand. Buying one in Jerusalem can be a hassle and not to mention, a bit pricier.
It’s Pricy
Something that may surprise you, is to learn how expensive visiting Jerusalem is. Israel is already known to be far from a budget travel destination, but prices in Jerusalem are even higher than the countrywide average.
I tried my best to travel on a budget, something that was a huge challenge without giving up some comforts. A simple sit down meal of meat and fries could cost $20 USD! A glass of fresh orange juice was $7 USD. The food here was easily more expensive than in the US!
Budget Options
If you want to save money, understand that you’ll likely give up some comfort.
You can sleep in a dirt cheap hostel for $15 USD a night, but it will be very basic, and extremely busy. For hostels, you’ll want to book ahead too. I booked the day of and all the good options were taken. I stayed in a very dirty place, but it was in the city center so I can’t complain.
You can also opt to eat street food for most, if not all meals. I ate falafel from street vendors everyday. Luckily, this is one of my favorite foods in the Middle East, so I was happy to do so. You can score a small snack sized falafel with roasted eggplant in a pita, for $2 USD.
Prices improve a lot on the Palestinian side, where I actually preferred to eat. A sit down meal or huge shawarma cost me $2 – $3 USD in Bethlehem. It was like heaven compared to the Israeli side.
Things to Do
Depending on your reason for visiting Jerusalem, your list of must see and do things may differ. I came to Jerusalem as someone who was raised Catholic, but my visit was not motivated by any religious beliefs. Instead, I came with the intention of gaining a deeper understanding of the history of the Holy Land. This includes learning about the other religions that originated here. I spent time in the Christian, Muslim and Jewish Quarters equally, in efforts to get a well rounded experience of what this place means to people, even those from other religions. Here are some things you should not miss while in Jerusalem.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre
One of the most, if not the absolute most, important church in existence for the Christian faith is the Church of the Holy Sepulphre. This is where Jesus was said to be crucified, and where he lived out the last moments of his life. This church is almost always full, even during the evenings.
This church stays open all night, allowing people to spend a night together in prayer. It’s a beautiful ceremony, and even if you aren’t religious (or aren’t anymore), it will give you insight into the level of devotion people have, to come from all over the world to honor the same beliefs.
Dome of the Rock Mosque (Temple Mount)
This is the most significant Muslim religious site in Jerusalem. The impressively ornate dome of this mosque can be seen from any viewpoint of Jerusalem, as it clearly dominates the skyline. While here, you’ll find that it’s in extremely close proximity to the Western Wall, which is incidentally the most significant Jewish site in Jerusalem.
In fact, this area has been the grounds of a centuries old conflict, between the two religions. Depending when you visit, it may even be closed to tourists. In 2015- 2016, during a peak in the Israeli Palestinian conflict, the political climate sparked fears of violence. This resulted in heavy restrictions on entry into this area.
For those of the Muslim faith, it is believed that this is the site the Prophet Mohammed visited during the ‘night journey’. It is said, Mohammed travelled from Mecca to Jerusalem, and finally back on a winged horse.
This is easily the most beautiful site you’ll encounter when visiting Jerusalem.
Western Wall (Temple Mount)
This religious site is also located on the Temple Mount. The Temple Mount is said to be where Kind Solomon built his first temple. Inside, it held the Ark of the Covenant, or the encasing of the original Ten Commandments tablets.
Today, those of the Jewish faith come to pray against the Western Wall. This wall is said to have been part of the second temple built by Kind Solomon. In Judaism, it’s regarding as being the closest structure to the gates of Heaven.
The entire area is under heavy security at all times. You must pass through security checks, metal detectors, and potentially more heavily armed military personnel. It really gives you a clear perspective on how conflicted this place is, both in biblical days as well as now.
Mount of Olives
This hill offers possibly the best view of the Old City of Jerusalem below. It got it’s name from having been covered in olive trees in the past. Today, it’s the site of a large Jewish necropolis. This cemetery is the resting place for some 150,000 Jewish people. This cemetery has been around since biblical times, and even back then, held significance for both those of the Jewish and Christian faith.
Via Dolorosa
If you are interested in biblical history, you can follow the Via Dolorosa. This is not a street, but a route. It’s said to be the same route Jesus walked on his way to his crucifixion. There are several stops along the way, called Stations of the Cross. These are marked, and signify a place where Jesus stopped on his way to his crucifixion site. You can read more about what happened at each place during the time right before Jesus’ death. It really paints a vivid picture in the mind of his final moments.
Wander Old Jerusalem
My favorite part of visiting Jerusalem was just wandering around the old city, and pretending I lived in biblical times. The old city itself is set up like a labyrinth, with many tiny cobbled alleyways, under stone arches. Sometimes, you’ll come across the markets, which are truly an experience for the senses. The smell of the spices, the sounds of the ongoing crowds, interspersed by the sound of church bells or the call to prayer.
The best time to wander, is in the early morning and at night for thinner crowds. I felt the old city had a haunting beauty to it at night, when the tour groups left.
Tomb of the Virgin Mary
Another site with huge significance in the Christian religion, is the church where the Virgin Mary is said to be buried. Aside from the religious importance, it’s not by any means the most impressive church. You’ll find this place to be very crowded with people coming to pay their respects.
Church of Mary Magdalene
This church looks extremely out of place, to say the least. Unlike the historic, stone structures of the other religious sites, this one is built in a more modern Russian style. Regardless, it’s one of the most beautiful churches in Jerusalem. It’s golden towers, and iconic Russian Orthodox architecture, really make it stand out from its surroundings. You’ll find it on your way to the Mount of Olives.
Garden Tomb
This site is believed by some to be the place where Jesus was buried. Today, you’ll find a quaint little garden, and a rock cut tomb. The site has sparked some controversy within the Christian religion. This is mostly because it challenges the previously accepted idea that Jesus was buried at the site of the Church of the Holy Sepuchre. No one knows which is correct, but you can visit both and decide for yourself.
Eat Middle Eastern Sweets
It would be hard for you to spend even a day in Jerusalem, and not be tempted by the endless number of sweets shops lining the cobbled alleyways. In Jerusalem, they do not hold out on either sugar or flavor, meaning the sweets here are likely to be equally decadent, and unhealthy. Two things you must try in Jerusalem are halva and knafeh. Mmmmm, knafeh.
Going to Palestine
I highly suggest visiting the Palestinian side when visiting Israel, but especially when visiting Jerusalem. For one, the biblically significant town of Bethlehem is on the Palestinian side. You’ll need to check the current situation before you go, but generally, tourists cross into the Palestinian side to visit Bethlehem all the time. It is safe to do so, with some precautions.
You’ll need to board the bus at the East Jerusalem bus station. The bus that will take you to Bethlehem is bus number 21. There isn’t any permanent schedule, so check with your hotel or the bus station for departure times when you are there.
The bus cost me about 5 Israeli Shekels ($1.50 USD), and they only take exact change from what I remember.
Once in Bethlehem, you will find yourself back in Arabic culture. Lots of kebab shops, and the prices are much better. I really enjoyed my time on the West Bank, and I wish I could have stayed longer.
Be sure to not lose your visa paper or travel documents, because it will be an issue for you to get back into the Israeli side. They usually check this before you board the bus.
The most famous attraction in Bethlehem is the Church of the Nativity, which was built over the site of Jesus’ birth.
Things to Skip in Jerusalem
Eating at Restaurants
Most of the restaurants in the old city are both highly overpriced, as well as tourist traps. You aren’t really getting your money’s worth dining here. I sat down once to have dinner and was disappointed. The food was just okay, but I paid an astronomical price for my meal.
For better food and better prices, eat at restaurants on the Palestinian side instead. I had AMAZING food while in Bethlehem.
While in Jerusalem, I’d recommend snacking instead, on the desserts and juices from the shops, and the falafel and other goods from the little food carts.
Buying Souvenirs
I’m not saying you shouldn’t buy anything while visiting Jerusalem. For one, this is a once in a lifetime type of place you’ll want to remember visiting. Plus, I know my mother would have murdered me if I didn’t get her a rosary from here at the very least.
But my advice: hold off on the shopping until your last couple hours. There are loads of shops, and all of them are ready to rip you off. Seriously, it left a slightly bad impression on me how readily people were to scam and rip off people, even in the Holy Land! Almost all shops sell very similar things. Have a look around before purchasing anything. Definitely get an idea on prices, and bargain when shopping. I assure you, the initial price they give you is way way wayyyy too high.
And that wraps up this guide of things to know before visiting Jerusalem! Have you visited the Holy Land before? What are some things you wished you knew before visiting Jerusalem? Let me know below!
This is very informative. A huge part of me is looking forward to visiting but there was a little part of me still a bit apprehensive, this post has helped me to feel a little more informed about this wonderful city.
Because of Covid, we have trimmed down our bucket list but a pilgrimage to the Holy Land remains. It is one of the few items that we have vowed to complete. Thank you for this comprehensive post on it.
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