Hiking Theth to Valbona: 4 Day Albanian Alps Itinerary

If you love mountain adventures but haven’t yet heard of the Albanian Alps, this is your call to head that way next summer! This region is spoiled in natural beauty, and the secret is slowly getting out. Imagine purples hued mountains against pink sunsets, hiking alongside turquoise streams, and taking a dip in the many springs and waterfalls you find along the trail. The most popular route for enjoying the highlights of this area is hiking Theth to Valbona. Here is a complete 4 day Albanian Alps Itinerary covering this exact route, plus all the must-see side hikes nearby!

Where Are the Albanian Alps?

The Albanian Alps are a mountain chain located in the northeast corner of Albania. The closest “big” city is Shkoder, which most travelers will transit through to reach this region. Interestingly, this mountain range also has another name, Prokletije which means The Accursed Mountains in Serbian. The origin of the mountain’s name is not clear, but some say the “curse” came from a woman who was trying to escape through the mountains.

When to Go to the Albanian Alps

You can safely hike the Albanian Alps from late May until the end of September. Coming in spring can be hit or miss, as there could still be snow on the trail so it’s not advised until late in the season.

Summer is peak season, so the days are longer allowing you to take your time on the trails. However, the midday heat is real, and you’ll have to start early to avoid doing the hardest part of the hike in the blazing sun. This is also the busiest time to hike and you’ll see a lot of people on the trail. Blue eye waterfall will be completely full, shoulder to shoulder.

I’ve been told the beginning of autumn is a great time to hike, as the heat simmers down, and the crowd thins out.

Should I Start in Theth or Valbona?

There is an argument for both cases. Starting in Theth means starting the hike with a very steep ascent up to the Valbona Pass that takes about 2 – 3 hours. After that, you cruise through the remaining 4 – 5 hours of the hike going downhill or on almost flat ground.

Starting in Valbona means a very easy beginning to the hike – virtually flat for at least an hour. Then a gradual incline for 4 – 5 hours, until reaching Valbona Pass. After that it’s smooth sailing.

If you prefer to knock out the hardest part of the hike early in the day, before it gets really hot, I’d start in Theth. The steep part here is also mostly in the forest, so you have some shade while busting your ass. If you like slow and steady elevation gain, and don’t mind that it’ll be longer and in mostly exposed areas, start in Valbona.

Side Hikes in Theth

There are also a few side hikes on this itinerary you can’t miss, all starting in Theth. If you prefer to do a lot of small hikes before a big hike, start in Theth. If you’re worried the smaller hikes will wear you out before the big one, start in Valbona.

Why I Started in Theth

For me, I chose to start in Theth village because I knew I wanted to go on the boat ride through Komani Lake at the end of the trip, which departs from Valbona. I felt it made more sense to save the boat ride for the end of the trip then to do it at the beginning, therefore starting in Theth made the most sense.

Where to Stay

For your backpacking trip through the Albanian Alps, you’ll likely be staying in guesthouses. These are simple, yet often charming little bed and breakfast types of properties. You often have breakfast included, and dinner as well with a small extra fee.

Stay in Fushi-Theth

Whether you’ll choose to start in Theth or Valbona for your hike, when you do make it to Theth, be sure to stay in Fushi-Theth. It’s another area within the Theth Village itself.

It’s much closer to the trailhead for most of the day hikes you’d want to do while in Theth. For photography enthusiasts, Fushi-Theth is where the iconic Theth Church is located so you’ll want to stay nearby for prime sunset and sunrise photo lighting.

Book a Guesthouse

I stayed in a guesthouse called Zariklis because my hotel in Shkoder recommended it. It was comfortable enough, but I will say that the shower is very simple (think Vietnam countryside, with the spiders too) and I remember after dinner we were all still hungry!

I’ve heard great reviews from others on the trail who stayed at Shpella Guesthouse nearby, which apparently has a fabulous dinner, and lunch too. Perhaps give this one a try if you are a big eater like I am.

How to Book a Guesthouse

I had my hotel in Shkoder book my guesthouse in Theth since it was my first point on the trip. They just make a call to reserve under your name, you’ll still pay in cash onsite.

As for booking in Valbona or later on in the trip, I’d say wing it. I went in peak hiking season, and was able to find vacancy everywhere. This way if you have delays due to weather or find another place you’d rather stay on arrival, you can be flexible.

How to Prepare

Before heading to Theth, you’ll need to prepare the same way you would for any backpacking trip. Here’s how to plan and prepare for hiking village to village in the Albanian Alps.

Check the Weather

Even if you visit in peak summer, the weather conditions in the mountains are subject to huge fluctuations. You will definitely want to check the weather forecast the week leading up to your trip, and especially the 2 nights before you depart.

If you find that it will rain heavily, I’d honestly make alternative arrangements. The rain here comes down hard, making it impossible to hike. Even if you are stubborn and you manage, you’ll have no view at all.

If you’re considering coming anyway and just holing it up at your hut, you can. But it’s really cold in the mountains when it rains. Put simply, it’s not worth it.

Be Flexible

The ideal situation is to have some flexibility. If rain is predicted, spend a few days in Shkoder instead, or do a small trip. You can head to Montenegro or somewhere nearby in Albania like Durres for beaches, or Tirana for a city break.

The main idea is to have a back up plan. For me, there was heavy rain predicted on the third day of my hike. So I cut my itinerary short to squeeze the trip into 3 days, spending only 2 in the mountains.

How to Pack

When packing for your hiking trip from Theth to Valbona, you’ll want to bring as little as possible since you’ll be carrying everything on your back. If you will take the coach from Shkoder to get here, you’ll have to transit back through Shkoder. I’d advise leaving most of your stuff at your hotel here. They may charge a small fee, but they should be happy to hold onto your luggage.

Since it’s now possible to self-drive to Theth, you could also leave your luggage in your car.

What to Bring

After leaving most of your things in Shkoder or your car, pack a waterproof backpack with the following items for the actual hiking:

Clothes to Pack

• 2 hiking tops (you can hand wash these in Theth, the sun is strong during the day they’ll dry)
• 1 pair of hiking shorts
• hiking shoes (wear them)
• 1 pair of yoga pants (in case it gets cold)
• 2 sports bras
• 1 bikini
• socks for everyday
• underwear for everyday
• sunglasses
• a wide hat

Toiletries to Pack

• travel sized shampoo, soap, conditioner (the guesthouses don’t always provide)
• your essential skincare
• sunblock (very important!! SPF 50+)
• mosquito spray (although I didn’t find many mosquitoes)
• microfiber towel

Tech Gear to Pack

• phone charger
• camera
• power bank

Essential Gear to Pack

• waterbottle
• mini first aid kit (bandaids and septic)
• snacks

Things to Know Before you Go

Bring Cash

I didn’t see a single ATM during my time in either Theth or Valbona. Be sure to bring enough cash to avoid any problems. You should bring enough to cover accommodation for 3 nights, food, transportation to Theth and to Komani, and a bit extra for emergencies. I brought about $200 USD and it was way more than enough.

Fitness Level

The hike from Theth to Valbona is probably doable for most people, but there is a part of the hike that is very steep. This part lasts about 3 hours. Towards the end of the hike, you spend a lot of time walking along the riverbed. This means walking over huge pebbles and rocks which can be tiring.

I’d advise people to be honest with themselves about their fitness level. If you are reasonably fit, you can definitely complete this itinerary. If you’ve never done a multi-day hike before, strongly consider cutting off one day of hiking. In my opinion, the blue eye waterfall is a must-see, so I would cut out Denelle from the below itinerary if needed.

Take a Rest Day

Another option is to integrate a rest day before doing Theth to Valbona, to allow your muscles to heal before doing the biggest hike of the trip.

Navigation

I’ve found the trail from Theth to Valbona to be moderately well marked. While there are signs along the trail, they are quite far and few in between. The trail is pretty obviously marked, but you’ll feel safer having a digital map just in case.

I’d recommend downloading Maps.me. Not only does this offer accurate offline maps of the trail from Theth to Valbona, but it’s almost the only option. Google Maps in The Albanian Alps, and Albania in general, was always incorrect.

Getting There

Up until as recent as this year, it was impossible to self drive yourself to the Theth to Valbona trail due to bad roads. I’ve heard that the road has finally been paved, so for those who want to rent a car and drive to Theth, you totally can!

For the rest of us, we will take a minibus from Shkoder to Theth or to Valbona. You can book these directly via your hotel or hostel while in Shkoder. If you are for some reason staying at neither, just pop into a hotel and ask them to book it for you.

It should cost about 600 leks, about $5.65 USD one way, cash only.

Starting the Hike in Theth

From Shkoder to Theth takes about 2.5 hours, depending on the traffic and how many stops the minibus takes. For us, there was a lot going on on the roads that day and we arrived in Theth at about 11am, 3 hours after departing Shkoder.

If you are going by minibus, they will pick up passengers between 7am – 8am, so you can expect to arrive around 10:30am – 11am. The minibus seats less than 20 people and is quite comfortable. You’ll have a rest stop along the way with your first sweeping view of the Albanian Alps.

Starting in Valbona

If you prefer to do the trip in reverse, you’ll take an early 6:30am minibus from Shkoder to Komani (700 Leks). There you can board the Berisha Ferry (800 Leks) that takes you through the gorgeous Komani Lake, to Fierz, from which another minibus (700 Leks) will take you to Valbona arriving at around 1:30pm.

Doing this route means you’ll take the ferry at the beginning of your trip. Depending on your preference, you may choose this route because of that, or opt to do the route the traditional way (going to Theth first).

Things to Do in Shkoder

You journey to the Albanian Alps starts and ends in Shkoder. Before or after you start your journey, you should plan to spend a day or two exploring the city itself. This city is very charming in it’s own way and is well worth a couple days of exploring.

Check out Shkoder Castle, rent a bike and ride around the lake, check out the old town, and try some authentic traditional food at Fisi Restaurant.

Day 1: Shkoder – Theth – Denelle – Theth

For this article, I’ll give the itinerary for starting the hike in Theth. If you are taking the minibus or driving in the morning, you should arrive in Theth around 10 – 11 am. This is plenty of time to drop off your things, have a quick lunch, and head off to explore.

You guesthouse can prepare a take away lunch for you on request to save you time. This usually consists of a sandwich with veggies (no meat), a hardboiled egg, tomatoes, and a block of feta cheese.

Hiking to Denelle

Duration: 5 – 6 hours roundtrip

Elevation Gain: 900 meters

Distance: 5.5 miles/ 9 km

Difficulty: moderate

If you want to start off the first day with a hike, you can head to Denelle, which can be reasonably completed within that afternoon. To find the trail, look up Denelle on Maps.me. The trailhead starts by crossing the river.

The hike starts off steep, with a 3 hour ascent until reaching Denelle itself. Since it will be afternoon when you start, take it slow and bring plenty of water – it will likely be very hot. Luckily most of the ascent is in the forest, so you aren’t as exposed.

Halfway to Denelle, you’ll reach a viewpoint of a beautiful valley. This is a good spot to take a break and have a snack. Another hour or so from there, you will reach Denelle, a beautiful plain surrounded by mountains. Spend some time here relaxing, until going back down the way you came back to Theth.

Day 2: Theth – Grunas Waterfall – Blue Eye Waterfall – Theth

On the second day, wake up with the sun to enjoy those stunning colors of sunrise. Seriously, the sunrise here was among my top favorites I’ve ever seen. So many gorgeous pastel colors painting the mountains and clouds, plus the peaceful ambience of a village still asleep.

Theth Church

If you are a photographer, head straight to the iconic church in Fushi Theth. This is partly why I advised for you to stay in this area, for easy access to the church for sunrise shots! You can find the church on Google Maps under the name Kishi E Theth.

Once you’ve taken your photos and had a morning stroll around the village, head back to your guesthouse for a nice breakfast likely ready for you. Pack up your day bag and don’t forget a bikini! Today you are heading to the waterfalls.

Hiking to Blue Eye Waterfall

Duration: 6 hours roundtrip

Elevation Gain: mostly flat

Distance: 12 miles/ 19 km

Difficulty: easy

On this day, you’ll want to pack your swim clothes, because you’re going to the waterfall! To get to the trailhead, you’ll have to cross the river again. From here you have the option to make a small detour to Grunas Waterfall if you want.

Grunas Waterfall

This waterfall is taller than the blue eye but not nearly as impressive. It’s also likely to be crowded since it’s such a short distance from the village. I’d advise that you rather check it out on the way back, when it may clear out for the day.

Blue Eye Waterfall

The walk to the Blue Eye Waterfall is not difficult, since it has very little elevation gain and remains mostly flat. Just keep an eye out for the trail, because it’s not always obvious. You can do this by following the arrows painted onto the rocks of the riverbed.

You can reach the Blue Eye in about 2 – 3 hours depending how frequently you stop. 30 minutes before reaching the falls, you will have a bit of elevation gain. Because of the heat, I found this bit challenging and had to stop a few times.

Arriving at Blue Eye Waterfall

Once you arrive, you’ll find a beautiful pool of the deepest and brightest shades of blue with it’s own little waterfall.

If you start early enough you MAY even have it somewhat to yourself. I arrived around 3 – 4 pm and it was incredibly crowded, with people competing for space to even sit!

If you are dreaming of a more peaceful experience, try to start the hike earlier. Maybe if you leave Theth at 9 – 10am, you’ll beat the crowds.

Also if you are considering swimming, you should know that the waterfall is incredibly cold, even in the sun.

Other Springs on the Trail

Instead of catching hypothermia at the Blue Eye, on the way back to Theth you will pass at least one or two beautiful turquoise pools. At least once of these are more shallow and exposed in the sun, so it’s warm enough for a dip.

I found a random pool about 20 minutes on the way back from Blue Eye, and it was my favorite part of the day. Soaking in the water, exploring the little waterfalls and pools, and enjoying the 360 mountain views.

Back to Theth

On the way back to Theth, you’ll go back the way you came. If you started early enough you’ll have some daylight left. I could advise taking a small break once back in Theth at a little cafe called Kunora e Grunasit. It will be directly on your way back to Fushi-Theth.

It’s a cute little cafe, with hammocks and chickens running around, plus really quaint views of the mountains. Especially in the afternoon golden hour, I found this place so relaxing. You can order a coffee or beer to finish off your hike of the day.

Day 3: Theth – Valbona Pass – Valbona

Duration: 7 – 8 hours (10 hours for beginners/ photographers who stop a lot, 5-6 hours for experienced hikers)

Elevation gain: 1000 meters +

Distance: 11 miles/ 17 km

Difficulty: strenuous

For the last day of hiking, you’ll want to get up early again. Soak in that sunrise lighting one more time, have a good breakfast, pack up some food for lunch, and head off. The reason everyone advises you to start early is to beat the heat. You have until about 10 am until the sun starts to feel really strong. With that said, don’t forget the sunblock.

If you stayed in Fushi Theth, you’ll have to walk to Theth to reach the trail.

You’ll have 3 hours of steeply ascending the mountain. This takes you partly through exposed switchbacks, and partly in the forest until you reach Valbona Pass. About halfway up, you’ll reach a cute cafe with a terrace and garden. This place is a great place to refill water with the fresh ice cold water fountain. If you want to relax more, you can order some snacks, coffee or even cake here. The view is quite nice.

Valbona Pass

From this cafe, you have another 1 – 1.5 hours of trekking steadily uphill, mostly in the forest so you’ll at least have some shade. Once you surpass the tree line, then you are pretty close. You have about 30 minutes of hiking on the exposed trail until you reach the highest peak of the whole trip.

You’ll know you’ve arrived when you can see mountains from all sides. If you want the highest viewpoint, just climb a bit further up the steep rocky slope straight ahead. From here, take a break, soak in the view, take a nap (I did), and of course take plenty of photos.

The hike after the pass is pretty easy since it’s all downhill so take your time up here and enjoy your accomplishment.

Simoni Cafe

On the way down be sure to drink plenty of water as it would be midday now and extremely hot. Don’t worry about conserving water, since you have a refill point less than an hour from the peak at Simoni Cafe.

This little cafe is more like a little drink stand on the side of the road. You can order fresh local tea, yogurts, coffee, beer or even rakia if you dare. Take advantage of the toilet and water refill station while here.

There is also a little seating area in the shade to relax. Nearby, there is the small Rrogami Waterfall which you can make a small detour to visit if you wish.

Valbona Village

The rest of the hike is pretty boring to be honest. You are descending down in the forest on a pretty rocky and uneven trail which requires attention and careful footing. You’ll go on like this for about 2 – 3 hours until reaching Valbona Village.

The last part of the hike is walking on the riverbed itself, on flat but super rocky terrain. This part of the hike is exposed and can be very hot. I also saw some pigs running around in this part of the trail alongside the trees.

Jezerca Guest House

Once you reach Valbona Village, you can relax for the afternoon at your guesthouse. If you still have energy, go for a quick walk to explore the village by heading to the old Valbona Mill while walking along the river.

As for where to stay, if you have the energy to walk to the other side of Valbona village (maybe an extra 15 minutes) I’d recommend Jezerca Guest House. This guest house is on the cutest property! It’s home to ducks, chickens and so many little animals, plus a wonderful outdoor eating area with fairy lights and a pond.

I was able to stay here for around 12 euros a night, breakfast included. It’s the best deal in the area for comfort and amenities.

Day 4: Valbona Village – Komani Lake – Shkoder

If you stay overnight at Jezerca Guest House, they can help you book your trip back to Shkoder via Komani Lake onsite. It will cost about 2200 leks ($22 USD) which need to be paid in cash. You can have a late start to your morning as the shuttle doesn’t come until around 10:30 am.

The minibus will pick you up, and drive you through some beautiful valleys and scenery to Fierz, where you’ll have another hour or so to relax until your ferry leaves.

Komani Lake

If you are strategic, you could wait to board the Berisha Ferry from 20 minutes prior to departure. This would allow you to choose your seat, instead of sitting on the floor like I did! Most people who chose, picked a seat at the front of the boat. No worries if you don’t secure one, you can just sit on the floor at the tip of the boat which is comfortable enough.

The ferry ride lasts for about 2.5 hours, and takes you through stunning scenery of green mountains peaks cradling the lake itself. It really feels for a moment like being back in Thailand.

Once you dock in Fierz at around 3:30pm, it’s another 2 hours in the minibus until you reach Shkoder around 5:30pm in the afternoon.

And that wraps up your perfect 4 day itinerary for hiking the Albanian Alps. The Theth to Valbona trail is an amazing introduction to the wonderful natural beauty of Albania. Especially now with the newly paved roads and even group hiking tours being made available, it’s easier and more convenient than ever to cross this one off your bucket list.

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